I have genetically large pores all over my nose and center of my cheeks, so it’s really important for me to keep them in check! Left to their own devices, my pores literally become a polka-dotted breeding ground for blackheads, and we all know that blackheads lead to pimples if not kept clean and germ-free.
You may have heard by now that pores cannot actually be “shrunk”. They can only be tightened, but the size cannot be reduced. In order to tighten pores, they need to be kept as clean as possible so the sebum and dead skin cells aren’t keeping the pores open. In fact, your pores could actually be blocked by sebaceous filament rather than blackheads. When the pores are cleaned out, then they will actually have the chance to tighten in size rather than being held open by all the dirt, sebum, and dead skin cells.
The main key to reducing the appearance of pores is to ABE – always be exfoliating! This will encourage the surface layer of the skin to keep renewing, preventing dead skin cells from clogging up the pores.
I once went to a beautician and they tried to sell me three sessions of an exfoliating peel called “AquaTech” for $330! The idea behind this peel device was like a more moisturizing and less abrasive form of microdermabrasion that gets rid of dirt trapped under up to six layers of skin, whereas at home treatments only reach the first couple surface layers of skin. Well, if I know anything about skin is that it renews itself about every month. That means that if you want to get to deeper layers of skin, it should only take a few months. If you maintain clean pores, they will only get better over time as the skin renews and new layers grow in. Thus, I decided to pass up her offer and try my own intensive pore-cleaning methodology!
You definitely should NOT: 1) Use pore strips. The abrasiveness of this method is only a quick-fix and will leave pores open, unprotected, and injured, which will attract even more dirt/sebum and enlarge the pores even further! Don’t go down this rabbit hole. 2) Use a physical exfoliant (especially the facial scrubs with shell powder) as this can cause micro-scarring and lead to more inflammation! Physical exfoliants like silicone scrubbers, cleansing devices, silk cotton balls, and konjac sponges are okay, but I found my skin to be too sensitive for these methods. They can also be unhygienic as the devices can collect bacteria over time. You can choose your poison though. It’s dangerous to be pairing physical and chemical exfoliants together as you run the risk of over-exfoliating and causing more dryness, irritation, or hyper-pigmentation from sun sensitivity. If your skin looks to be flaking, then stop exfoliating and start moisturizing / hydrating!
NOTE: Do not attempt to tighten pores with this methodology if you are currently breaking out or have acne issues. You should address your acne first before potentially conflating acne issues with chemical exfoliation.
Without further adieu, here’s my DIY facial for blackheads for keeping my pores as clean and tight as genetically possible without physical exfoliation:
Step 1: Use a BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) daily after your toner. This is a chemical exfoliant that is key in loosening your blackheads so that they wash out more easily.
Step 2: Every 1-2 days, use a facial cleansing oil to massage your pores to draw out the blackheads, kind of like oil-pulling but for your face. The idea is that oil attracts other oil, so the oil cleanser would in effect be drawing out the oily impurities.
Step 3: Every 3-4 days, use an enzymatic powder cleanser, which will gently encourage exfoliation and dead cell turnover. Since a cleanser is never resting on your face for very long, this is a very mild and gentle way to add more chemical exfoliation via enzymes without being too harsh. If you feel your face drying out though, you should reduce usage of the exfoliating cleanser.
Step 4: Once a week, use a chemical exfoliating mask followed by a clay mask for a deep exfoliation and drawing out of impurities.
Step 5: Since you’re constantly exfoliating and sloughing off the top layer of your skin, you need to protect it from the sun by wearing sunscreen with at least SPF 30 everyday! Here’s a great guide to choosing a good sunscreen. Make sure the sunscreen you wear is non-comedogenic (non-pore-clogging). This means they should be silicone-free, mineral oil-free, and petrolatum-free. I’ve found that silicones are the main ingredient that cause my pores to be clogged so I try to avoid it in everything I apply to my face (including all skincare and makeup).
Below are the products I use for the my method described. You don’t have to use these particular items, but these are the ones that work for me.
CosRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid ($16 for 3.38oz)
Usage: Pat onto skin after toning everyday. Allow 10-15 mins to sink in and absorb.
Description: BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid, and while there’s the word acid in the name, it’s actually quite mild and safe to use, even for sensitive skin. This does not make your skin more sensitive to the sun, but works to loosen blackheads so they’re easier to clean out. The CosRX BHA liquid also contains niacinamide, which is a great anti-wrinkle ingredient and adds extra moisture. It has very minimal other ingredients, which reduces the chance of irritation.
Trader Joe’s Facial Cleansing Oil ($6.99 for 4oz)
Usage: Massage into face for about 3-4 minutes, focusing on areas with large pores such as nose and cheeks. Leave on for 10 minutes and wash off.
Description: Blend of natural botanicals, including coconut oil, argan oil, and abyssinian oil with a slight fresh scent.
ORBIS Oil Cut Powder Wash Cleanser ($21 for 50g)
Usage: Once every 3-4 days, in place of the normal foaming cleanser
Description: This is an enzymatic cleanser designed to slough off the dead surface layers of the skin as a gentle exfoliating treatment. This will help to unclog the pores by getting rid of dead skin cells that could get trapped in the pores. This is similar in function to the classic Tatcha Rice Enzyme Powder that is much more expensive ($65 for 60g).
Alba Botanics Papaya Enzyme Mask ($8 for 3oz)
Usage: Once per week as a five minute mask.
Description: An enzyme mask works to chemically exfoliate surface layer of skin, creating faster cell turnover and forcing the skin to renew itself faster.
Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask ($15 for 3.38oz)
Usage: Once per week after the enzyme mask — applied only to areas with large pores (typically the oily t-zone area) so that my entire face isn’t dried out.
Description: This clay mask (or any other clay mask) will help to suck out all the dirt, grime, sebum, dead skin cells, etc. from your pores, leaving them clean and clear. Here’s a cheaper alternative that should work just as well – Queen Helene Mint Julep Masque.
Thinksport Everyday Face Sunscreen ($10 for 2oz)
Usage: Every morning!
Description: Lightly tinted physical sunscreen that’s silicone-free, paraben-free, and fragrance-free. Great for sensitive skin and won’t clog pores.
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